You’ve moved in.  The kitchen is beautiful.  The floors are perfect.  The paint colours are exactly what you imagined.  But, something feels… off.  Rooms don’t feel cosy in the evening.  The lighting is either blinding or gloomy.  There are shadows on your face in the bathroom.  The living room feels flat.  And, you can’t quite explain why.  If you’ve found yourself thinking “Why is my home lighting so bad?” you’re not alone.  The good news?  It’s usually not random.  There are clear reasons and clear fixes:

Problem 1: Your Only Lighting Is Downlights

This is the most common issue I see in UK homes whether they are self-builds, renovations, or from developers.  Rows – of – downlights – evenly spaced across the ceiling like an airport runway.  On paper, it looks tidy, logical, and modern.  But, in reality it creates:

• Harsh and unflattering top-down lighting with an interrogation room feel
• Annoying shadowing under your eyes and your cabinets
• A flat, bland, one-dimensional feel
• Glare when you are at the wrong angle to them
• Agitation, when you can never relax

Downlights are not evil – they just shouldn’t be the whole plan.

What’s the fix?  It’s layering your lighting.  Every main room on a home needs a mix of:

• Ambient lighting (general background)
• Task lighting (for cooking, reading, working)
• Accent lighting (to add depth)
• Decorative lighting (to soften the room visually)

If your only source of light is in the ceiling, the room will always feel clinical.

Problem 2: Everything Is on One Switch

You walk into the kitchen; you press the switch; all your lights go on.  It’s bright enough to perform surgery.  But, you just wanted a cup of tea.  This happens when lighting circuits aren’t designed strategically before first fix.  Electricians (usually!) wire what they’re told to.  If no-one has defined any zones, everything gets lumped together.

What’s the fix?  Your lighting should be zoned.  For example, in a kitchen:

• Your main downlights are on one circuit (yes you are allowed to have them sometimes!)
• Your island pendants are separate on another
• Your under-cabinet lighting is on another
• Any feature lighting separate

That way, you control can the functionality and the mood.  In the UK, especially in winter, flexibility matters.  You don’t want full brightness at 7pm every night of the year.

Problem 3: The Colour of the Lighting Is Wrong

This is a big one because LEDs come in different colour temperatures:

• 2700K (often called warm white)
• 3000K (still a warm white but crisper)
• 4000K (often called cool white)

Too cool, and your home feels like a doctor’s consulting room.  Too warm in the wrong places, and things lack sparkle and clarity.  I often see renovations where fittings have been chosen individually without keeping a colour temperature consistency.  The result is jarring to the majority.

What’s the fix?  Choose one consistent colour temperature strategy for the whole house with slight variations where appropriate, e.g. utility rooms can benefit from being slightly cooler.  Make sure all fittings match wherever they are coming from – mixing brands without checking specs is where problems start.

Problem 4: Not Enough Light Where You Actually Need It

Ironically, homes with lots of downlights often still feel dark.  Why?  Because the light isn’t directed where it’s needed:

• Kitchen islands are shadowed.
• Bathroom mirrors create unflattering face shadows.
• Stairs feel dim.

Light levels should be calculated – not guessed.

What’s the fix?  Lighting design isn’t about adding more fittings.  It’s about placing the right fittings in the right locations with the right beam angles.  In a kitchen, for example, downlights should be positioned forward of cabinets so your body doesn’t block the light when you’re working.  That’s the sort of detail that changes everything.

Problem 5: Dimmers That Don’t Dim Properly

You install dimmers, but when you dim your lights down they flicker, some fittings switch off before others, or there’s a limited dimming range.  This is common when LED loads haven’t been calculated properly or incompatible drivers have been specified.  Large and small wattage loads on one dimmer can also behave unpredictably.

What’s the fix?  LED lighting requires proper load balancing and compatible dimming systems.  Not all LEDs dim the same way. Not all drivers behave consistently. And not all dimmers suit all fittings.  This is where technical planning matters.

Can Bad Lighting Be Fixed After Installation?  Sometimes, but:

• Adding new circuits is disruptive
• Retrofitting fittings costs more
• Changing wiring after plastering is painful
• Listed properties complicate everything further

It’s always easier and cheaper to get it right before first fix.

Why does this happen so often?  I believe it’s because lighting design is rarely given ownership.

• Architects focus on structure.
• Interior designers focus on look and finishes.
• Electricians focus on installation.

And the lighting sits between all of them.  Unless someone takes responsibility for the plan, it becomes a patchwork and patchwork lighting shows.

The real question is if you’re mid-project and worried “Is my lighting going to work?” now is the time to act.  The earlier we review layouts, circuits, and specifications, the more flexibility you still have.

If you’re planning a self-build or renovation in the UK and want clarity before first fix electrics, you can enquire about my 3 types of lighting design services.  From on-line consultations where I will answer anything “lighting” through to a full lighting plan and specification service, there is one to meet what you need at your budget.

Because living with bad lighting for 20 years is far more expensive than designing it properly once.